I spent a week in Campania, a region that includes Naples, the Amalfi Coast, and, less known but truly authentic, the Cilento area. My stay was in the southern part of the region, where everything is calmer, less touristy, and far tastier.
Cilento is famous for mozzarella di bufala, and with good reason. Real, local mozzarella here is eaten while it’s still warm, incomparable to the supermarket version. Almost every restaurant or small shop offers its own mozzarella, fresh, full of flavour, and usually made just a few hours earlier. If you plan a visit, it’s worth stopping by one of the local farms that offer tastings and sell directly from production.
In this area, I visited the Salvatore Magnoni winery, known for producing natural wines. That means minimal intervention, no filtering, no chemicals. Not everyone loves that style, but if you enjoy honest, characterful wines that step outside the norm, Magnoni is a real find. The atmosphere is relaxed, no tourist façade, just a man who clearly loves what he does. Alongside the tasting, we toured the vineyards, which were genuinely impressive. Salvatore himself guided us through the visit, explaining every process in detail.
Of course, I visited the Amalfi Coast, including Positano. The photos don’t lie, it really does look like Instagram. But what the pictures don’t show are the massive crowds, high prices, and the logistical chaos. In summer, it can be overwhelming, especially if you’re seeking peace and quiet.
Still, one place was absolutely worth it: Trattoria La Tagliata, perched above Positano. The view is stunning, and the dinner concept is simple, there’s no menu, just a steady flow of courses, easily ten dishes or more. Everything is homemade, generous, and delicious. Tip: arrive very hungry. The atmosphere is informal and family-style, and watching the sunset over Positano from there is unforgettable. Highly recommended.
I spent just one day in Naples, and that was enough. The city is intense, loud, messy, but bursting with energy that’s impossible to ignore. Everything feels chaotic, yet somehow it all works.
At Pizzeria Brandi, the birthplace of the Margherita pizza, we had one of the nicest surprises in Naples. The classic Margherita was exactly what it should be, paired with a chilled Falanghina, the region’s signature white grape, and a perfect summer evening choice. To top it off, live musicians played in the restaurant, adding to the true Neapolitan vibe.
For food lovers, Naples offers so much more, from excellent, budget-friendly street food to outstanding seafood restaurants.
At the end of the trip, I visited Di Meo winery, located in Salza Irpinia, in the inland hills of the region. Unlike the coast, everything here is calm and green. I knew their wines were excellent, but they still managed to impress me again. The owner and head winemaker, Roberto Di Meo, is well known in Italy as a “bianchista”, a master of white wines. And indeed, I was quickly converted into a proud member of the “Fiano fan club,” though their Greco di Tufo was equally memorable. If you’re heading to Naples, a one-hour detour to Di Meo is absolutely worth it.
If you’re planning a trip to Campania, my advice is this: combine the famous with the less famous. Positano is beautiful, but avoid it in the peak of summer. Cilento offers a more authentic, relaxed atmosphere, and the wines and mozzarella there are absolutely worth the journey. Naples is a whirlwind, but worth experiencing with patience and an open mind. And whatever you do, go hungry, and leave some room in your luggage for a few bottles of wine.
Cin cin!
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